Luxury's old formula is starting to look tired

The luxury industry has spent years building its business around a familiar formula: sell fewer products, charge more for them and rely on the power of a famous name. For a long time, that formula worked particularly well for handbags, shoes and other fashion accessories.

But the market appears to be changing.

As consumers become more selective about expensive fashion purchases, jewellery is emerging as one of the strongest areas of opportunity for luxury companies. That shift could have major consequences for which brands succeed in the years ahead.

The reason is simple. Jewellery offers something that a high-priced handbag increasingly struggles to provide: a sense of lasting value.

Jewellery has become more than a fashion statement

Jewellery has always been associated with status and wealth, but its appeal today goes beyond fashion. Precious metals and gemstones can be viewed as stores of value, while a well-designed piece can also carry emotional and cultural significance.

The rise in gold prices has only strengthened that perception.

For consumers who are already questioning whether a luxury handbag is worth its price, a gold bracelet, necklace or ring may feel like a more defensible purchase. It can still signal status, but it may also retain a sense of intrinsic value that a seasonal fashion item does not.

That makes jewellery particularly attractive at a time when consumers are becoming more cautious about discretionary spending.

The handbag problem is bigger than price

The challenge facing luxury fashion is not simply that handbags have become expensive. The bigger issue is whether consumers still see enough excitement and innovation to justify those prices.

Younger shoppers, in particular, appear less willing to automatically buy into the traditional luxury hierarchy. Brand heritage still matters, but it is no longer enough on its own.

Luxury companies now have to answer a difficult question: what makes a product desirable when consumers can find endless alternatives?

Jewellery may have part of the answer.

A distinctive piece can feel more personal and timeless than another seasonal handbag. It can be worn across different occasions, passed between generations and, in some cases, linked to the value of the materials themselves.

The industry is following where the growth is

The major luxury groups are already paying attention.

Jewellery brands are becoming increasingly important to companies that once relied heavily on fashion and leather goods. The strong performance of jewellery businesses within major luxury groups suggests that the shift is not simply a temporary trend.

It is also changing where companies are likely to invest.

Expect more attention on jewellery design, new collections, celebrity partnerships and the expansion of established jewellery houses. Luxury groups that already own strong jewellery brands may find themselves in an enviable position, while fashion-heavy businesses will have to work harder to create new sources of growth.

The competition is therefore moving beyond who can sell the most expensive handbag.

It is becoming a question of who can create the most desirable objects that consumers believe are worth owning for years.

My view: luxury is returning to its roots

I think the growing importance of jewellery is a sign that luxury consumers are becoming more rational.

The luxury industry has spent years convincing customers that scarcity and branding can justify almost any price. That strategy works until consumers start asking whether the product itself offers enough value.

Jewellery has a natural advantage because the materials matter.

A luxury handbag can lose its appeal when trends change. A well-made piece of jewellery can remain relevant for decades. That distinction becomes even more important when economic uncertainty makes consumers think harder before spending large amounts of money.

This does not mean handbags and fashion are finished. The strongest brands will continue to command enormous loyalty. But the industry may be entering a period where simply raising prices is no longer enough.

The winners will likely be the companies that understand what modern luxury consumers actually want: products with identity, craftsmanship, emotional meaning and, increasingly, a credible sense of lasting value.

Jewellery may be the clearest expression of that shift.

For the luxury industry, the future may not belong to whoever sells the most bags. It may belong to whoever gives consumers the best reason to keep wearing what they buy.